Anodizing Titanium and Niobium Body Jewelry

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1) What is Anodizing?

Anodizing is a process where a coating is built up on the surface of certain metals (titanium, niobium, tantalum, aluminum, magnesium and zinc) by heating, with chemicals, or by electricity. In the case of titanium, the coating that is built up is a layer of titanium dioxide. Titanium dioxide, which is also known as titanium oxide, occurs naturally on the surface of titanium. Anodizing the surface of titanium can be done by the use of heat but the results are not easily controlled. The most common method is to form an oxide layer on the surface with the use of electricity. The way that this is done is with a variable power supply in which an electrode is connected to the positive side (anode), and one to the negative side (cathode).  Both are then submerged into a mildly conductive solution, thus completing the electrical circuit. The piece that is to be anodized is connected to the positive side, and that is why the process is called “anodizing”.

2) How are the different colors achieved?

Anodizing does not involve any dyes. The color on the surface is apparent because light reflects through the created oxide layer to create a color. Without the presence of light that color wouldn’t be there. Light reflects off of the surface of titanium. When a piece is high polished and not anodized, it reflects its mirror finish.  When a piece is anodized, the light has to reflect [refract] off of the surface through the added oxide layer.  The oxide layer filters the light waves passing through it and causes interference in the light reflected. This causes the light to reflect in a color. The color that is apparent on an anodized piece of titanium depends on the thickness of the oxide layer that has been applied to it. The thickness of the oxide layer that is formed during the process depends on the voltage of electricity that has been that has been applied to it. If you are anodizing more than one piece and you want them to be the exact same color, it would be a good idea to anodize them all at the same time. You may not get a color match if you do them on separate occasions. Thicker and/or larger pieces to be anodized may take longer and sometimes increased voltage, to achieve a similar color to their thinner, smaller counterparts.

3) What will you need to start anodizing?

  • An anodizer
  • A cathode (A sheet of non-corrosive metal like titanium or stainless steel.  A scrap piece of Ti or SS  that is larger than the piece being anodized will work, as well)
  • An anode ( The piece being anodized)
  • A submersion tank (This should be made of glass or plastic)
  • An electrolytic solution (TSP or a TSP-PF cleaning solution with water, baking soda with water, cola soft drink)
  • Electrodes

It is possible build your own anodizer. You can find information about this on the internet. It is much easier to buy an anodizer from a company that sells them already built. We get ours from Reactive Metals in Arizona.  They come with the anodizer, electrodes, stainless steel cathode sheet, instructions, and a pamphlet with some info about anodizing.

The Anodizer your studio needs! The power to create scintillating colors, run larger baths and precise control. It is the right power supply for both one of a kind and production anodizing of body jewelry. Full digital voltage and amperage meters. 0 to 120 Volts. Extremely fine controls for more color options, and more precision. Anodizing titanium parts such as jewelry before sterilization and wear renders the surface smoother and passive. The anodization process removes microscopic particulate matter that would otherwise be missed by acid or alkaline cleaning, solvents, steam and ultrasonic methods. [*Reference - ASTM F-86 standard method for surface finish and passivation] This anodizer include two sets of color coded leads, one pair of rubber gloves, one stainless steel cathode and full instructions and support. In addition, Brian Skellie's body art specific instruction, tips and tricks gathered over two decades of experience to color and passivate titanium and niobium body jewelry with safe and artistic effects. Come to a presentation, or contact Brian for more information

Get a new anodizer with our training and support!
Full kits of accessories and supplies available for your studio anywhere in the world. 

4) Which voltage achieves which color?

The more voltage that is applied during the process, the thicker the oxide layer that is achieved.  The voltage range used in this type of anodizing is usually between 15-120V.  The colors are in approximate ranges, and will differ slightly for each set up. It is good to start a little lower and turn it up gradually.

2000px-Anodized_titanium_colors.svg.png

ColorCopperDark PurpleDark BlueLight BlueYellowFuchsiaBlurpleTealGreen
Voltage range8 to 10 V15 to 16 V18 to 20 V27 to 30 V48 to 50 V62 to 63 V72 to 75 (up to 79) V81 to 85 (up to 89) V91 to 92 (up to 95) V
Relative voltages

This chart represents the voltage ranges that I use. I can usually achieve the color I am after within these ranges, however I always start out lower and work my way up. You can change the color of an anodized piece to another color of a higher voltage.  It is possible, for instance, to turn a dark blue anodized piece to light blue, yellow, or to any of the colors of a higher voltage. It is not possible, however, to turn that dark blue piece to a purple or a copper color. If you wanted to do that, the oxide layer would have to be stripped off through polishing/steam cleaning. The quality and consistency of the oxide layer formed, largely depends on the quality of the surface finish. When we anodize a piece of jewelry to be sent out to a customer, we sometimes do not get the result we want on the first try. The piece then gets re-polished and steam cleaned, to be anodized a second time. It might be a really good idea, if you are planning to anodize jewelry yourself, to get a polishing wheel and a steam cleaner.

5) What are the benefits of an anodized surface?

6) Safety

  • NEVER touch the anode to the cathode when the power is on! This may cause your electrical circuit to short out, and may cause you to receive an electric shock. When your anodizer is not being used, shut the power off and put a cover over your submersion tank.
  • It would be a good idea for the anodizing station that you set up to be in a well ventilated area.  Although it would be a very small amount, hydrogen gas is a byproduct of anodizing and can be explosive.
  • Because you are dealing with electricity, the use of rubber gloves is recommended.
  • Etching body jewelry is not recommended as it makes the surface rough.

7) Useful Websites

www.reactivemetals.comwww.mrtitanium.com
www.brnskll.comhttps://www.facebook.com/anodization/

8) Interesting Video

Scientastic demonstration with a strip of Ti about a minute in.

Scienterrific example of a very simple anodizing setup (interesting for one-off projects, not so good or precise for frequent studio use.)


Special thanks to Jonathan Loveless and JD Lorenz of Industrial Strength Body Jewelry for sharing photo and workshop materials.

Some frequently asked questions:

Do I need to use an ultrasonic to clean my jewelry before anodizing? No

Cleaning the jewelry with detergent, alcohol or a steamer first can help get the brightest results. If you anodize every piece to clean and passivate to the appropriate level of the ASTM F86 standard, you won’t usually have to use an ultrasonic. Anodizing gets matter off the surface and cleans down to one millionth of an inch with oxygen, and may also neutralize endotoxins. 

 I anodize every piece of jewelry right before use so that the surface finish is free of debris that an ultrasonic alone can’t remove. I rinse with a spray of distilled water or steam, then sterilize it with my Statim autoclave.  I choose not to use an ultrasonic cleaner because the vibrations can damage the polish of body jewelry unless the pieces are disassembled and kept separated in non-marring cups or jigs.

  • You can have your favorite manufacturers anodize everything immediately after polishing to the first low voltage light brown/bronze color before they ship. 
  • That makes sure it is all Ti or Nb, clean enough to anodize again, and seals the surface finish so that it does not oxidize in air with random crystals that interfere with high voltage anodization if it sits around in stock for a long time.

Do you find a stronger or weaker electrolyte solution works better for you? It depends on the goal

  • Stronger solutions conduct electricity better and work well for lower voltages spectrum colors, however this will overexpose Ti at higher voltages, and you are more likely to have to do more polishing if you make a mistake.
  • Weaker solutions slow the current so you can get higher spectrum colors, especially for anodic painting with a sponge or brush for high voltage effects.

I tend to make the solutions at 3 to 5% concentration of electrolyte to distilled water by weight and dilute if needed for anodic painting. Liquid TSP is the easiest I have found to mix with distilled water to make a clear solution, otherwise I mix the powdered electrolyte then let it settle. The solution does not spoil quickly, so I mix a gallon at a time. The solution should be filtered regularly to remove debris that sheds from jewelry, and discarded if it takes on an unusual odor or gets contaminated.

How can I make multicolor patterns? Anodic painting /spot anodizing with a handheld cathode

Only the part of the jewelry exposed to the electrolyte will change color.

  • Masking, such as an o-ring or bit of tape covering a piece of Ti will prevent anodization of the masked area and allow you to create patterns. 
  • Contact with an electrolyte moistened cotton swab, sponge, toothpick or paintbrush which is wired to the cathode can anodize spots, and be used to make fades, patterns, and oil slick effects.
    Use heat shrink tubing, electrical tape or plastic insulation for handheld cathodes to prevent shorts.

What about black? For Nb only: heat treat to black with a blowtorch, followed by polishing.

Statim 2000 USED / REFURBISHED

2000SPECIAL
$3,760
Pre-order
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Product Details
Brand: SciCan
Model: 2000 Classic

STATIM 2000 Cassette Autoclave


Reconditioned used units validated and spore tested with one year warranty

  • Ultra-fast 6 minute unwrapped cycle
  • 14 minute wrapped cycle
  • Exceptional instrument turnover
  • 10 minute Dri-Tecc Drying Technology
  • Aseptic transfer of instrument directly to the point-of-use
  • Reduced instrument investment
  • Prolongs instrument life

The STATIM 2000 Classic boasts a 6-minute cycle, but has the added advantage of employing a fully removable chamber so you can aseptically transport a set of freshly sterilized instruments directly to the procedure area.

The STATIM 2000 is fully automatic. Simply select one of the three sterilization programs and with a single touch of the keypad, begin the cycle. An advanced microprocessor controls all functions and maintains optimal sterilization conditions, from start to finish.

SciCan's STATIM cassette sterilizers have a biological effectiveness that has been proven in tests for hollow and solid instruments at many internationally recognized institutes in Canada, the United States, and Europe.

The STATIM 2000 is a reliable cassette sterilizer that's compact enough to fit in procedure areas and fast enough to sterilize jewelry, expensive Lasik, PRK, endoscopic and cataract instruments, including phaco handpieces, between procedures - it can complete an unwrapped sterilization cycle in just six minutes and a wrapped cycle in 14 minutes.

Dri-TecC Convection Heat Drying for the STATIM 2000

Dri-TecC – Convection heat drying technology

The STATIM 2000 uses convection heat to dry instruments by utilizing the remaining heat in the system after the sterilization phase. Heat is captured and released into the cassette, drying wrapped instrument loads in as little as 10 minutes.

Sterilization cycle description chart

Cycle Unwrapped Wrapped Rubber/Plastic
Sterilization time 3.5 minutes 10 minutes 15 minutes
Sterilization temp. 135º C 135º C 121º C
Total cycle time 6 minutes 14 minutes 20 minutes

ACCESSORIES available in the Shop:

01-100008A Cassette complete (with rack 01-106653)
01-100028S Seal & lubricant kit
01-100207S Air compressor filter
01-102119S Microbiological air filter
01-100812S Waste bottle complete
01-100204S Exhaust tube
01-103945S Instrument rack for unwrapped instruments
01-106653 Instrument rack for wrapped instruments
SCI134 Test Strip indicators (box of 250)
01-101783S Water reservoir cap & filter
01-109300S Water reservoir filter

statim_2000_cassettesysTM_cassetteSurgical Plastic Sterilization TraysStat-Dri Plus

SPECIFICATIONS:

Unit Size : L 480mm x W 415mm x H 150mm
L 19" x W 16.25" x H 6"
Cassette Internal Dimensions : L 280mm x W 180mm x H 35mm
L 11" x W 7" x H 1.5"
Reservoir Capacity : 4.0 litres (distilled water) Approximately 40 cycles
Weight without water : 21 kg/46 lbs
Power Consumption : 110-120 V, 60Hz, 1300 W

When you receive your Statim 2000 packing carton, the items listed below will be included.
If any of the items are missing, contact us immediately so that the situation can be corrected.

  • Cassette Tray and Lid
  • Unwrapped Instrument Rack
  • Waste Bottle
  • Bottle Lid Fitting
  • Power Cord
  • Operator's Manual
  • Exhaust Tube
  • Tube Mounting Hardware

Finance your equipment at our checkout

*The use of STATIM sterilizers was introduced to the body art field in the early 1990's by Brian Skellie at Piercing Experience, and developed in community along with other practical innovations in applied safety precautions and techniques.

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Learning Content

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See you at my next Anodizing workshop!

6 thoughts on “Anodizing Titanium and Niobium Body Jewelry”

  1. I am trying to find out why my copper bracelet came out of my ultrasonic with beautiful rainbow anodized colors. It has steel alloy ribbon ends, just cheap stuff nothing special. It is beautiful and I am hoping to recreate the event but in the meantime was searching to see if others had encountered an Ultrasonic cleaner anodizing copper jewelry.

    Reply
    • I’d suspect that the patina of colors is temporary, and caused by oxidization in the ultrasonic solution, increased by ion deposition from the two dissimilar metals. What was the solution?

      Reply

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